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Avaliar Doughnuts Backreef


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Doughnuts Backreef Swell Statistics, Summer: All Swell – Any Wind

The figure shows the range of swells directed at Doughnuts Backreef through a typical southern hemisphere summer, based on 7765 NWW3 model predictions since 2006 (values every 3 hours). The wave model does not forecast wind or surf right at the coastline so we have chosen the optimum grid node based on what we know about Doughnuts Backreef. In the case of Doughnuts Backreef, the best grid node is 4 km away (2 miles).

The rose diagram describes the distribution of swell sizes and swell direction, while the graph at the bottom shows the same thing but lacks direction information. Five colours illustrate increasing wave sizes. Blue shows the smallest swells, less that 0.5m (1.5 feet) high. These occurred only 23% of the time. Green and yellow illustrate increasing swell sizes and red illustrates biggest swells greater than >3m (>10ft). In each graph, the area of any colour is proportional to how often that size swell was forecast.

The diagram indicates that the dominant swell direction, shown by the largest spokes, was SSW, whereas the the prevailing wind blows from the SSE. Because the wave model grid is out to sea, sometimes a strong offshore wind blows largest waves away from Doughnuts Backreef and offshore. We lump these in with the no surf category of the bar chart. To avoid confusion we don't show these in the rose graph. Because wind determines whether or not waves are clean enough to surf at Doughnuts Backreef, you can view an alternative image that shows only the swells that were forecast to coincide with glassy or offshore wind conditions. Over an average southern hemisphere summer, swells large enough to cause surfable waves at Doughnuts Backreef run for about 77% of the time.

IMPORTANT: Beta version feature! Swell heights are open water values from NWW3. There is no attempt to model near-shore effects. Coastal wave heights will generally be less, especially if the break does not have unobstructed exposure to the open ocean.